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Our next event is the summer show on Saturday, the 19th of July in the village hall opening at 2 pm. Please come and support us and see the exhibits and enjoy a delicious tea. Better still why not enter. Schedules are available from committee members and The Five Bells. Also at the summer show we will be judging the children’s potatoes in buckets competition.
We are now in July and the longest day has passed. The vegetable plot is in full production. Autumn sown onions, garlic and shallots will be ready to harvest. With a hand fork gently loosen the base of the plant and gradually over a week or so lift it from the soil. Dry well in the open if no rain or undercover but be careful they don’t get too hot and start to cook!
Lift early potatoes and then fork over the ground; firm it down and then plant baby leeks using a dibber.

Runner beans will be climbing up their poles but must be well watered. When the top of the pole is reached remove the growing tip to encourage side shoots and more cropping.
Dwarf French beans may need a little support to raise the crop off the ground and away from the slugs.

Beetroot and salad crops will be ready to harvest and it’s not too late to make another sowing for a later crop.

Regularly check brassicas for caterpillars and squash any you find.
Courgettes will be beginning to crop and check daily to harvest them before they reach six inches as once the seeds start to set the plant will stop producing. Always water at the base and try to keep the leaves dry to avoid mildew.

When summer fruiting raspberries have finished cut the fruiting cane off at ground level and start to tie in new growth.

As strawberries stop fruiting and produce runners it is a good opportunity to raise fresh plants. Plants in their first year should be left in peace and their runners removed and discarded. Choose runners from the healthiest and most productive plants and limit it to 4 to 6 per plant. I use biodegradable pots filled with fresh compost and sink them into the ground and then press in the plantlet and cut off any further plantlets. When established it can be cut free from the parent plant.

Black , red , pink and white currants will be ready. It is worth remembering that there is a fundamental difference between black currants and the rest. Black currants fruit on one year old wood so once the shoot has fruited it should be removed and new shoots allowed to take its place. Red , pink and white currants are really all the same; white being an albino and pink a cross between the two. They crop on old wood so pruning consists of just keeping an open and manageable plant.

In the greenhouse stop tomatoes when they have formed six trusses or reached the roof! Remove the growing point one leaf above the highest truss.
Red spider mite and aphids can be a danger in the greenhouse. I inspect the leaves of cucumbers and aubergine daily being sure to look on the under side. Squash greenfly and a fine mist spray may deter red spider mite or use a biological control.
Apple trees will continue to drop fruit but may require further thinning.
Once plums cherries and apricots have fruited it is a good time to prune to ensure an open and manageable tree.

Remember to keep watering and let’s hope we don’t have a hosepipe ban.
Please remember our next show.

Good Gardening
Peter Estcourt

We have experienced the driest and hottest spring on record and this is obviously going to have consequences right through the growing season. At time of writing (12th May) there is no substantial rain forecast in the next few weeks. This suggests a long summer of watering and perhaps a hosepipe ban so a few words about water and watering.

Firstly to state the obvious rain water is best. It has two beneficial properties and these are the fact that it absorbs oxygen as it falls which will benefit growth and it arrives at the right temperature. It is worth remembering that water straight from the tap or well is usually too cold and can lead to scorching of leaves in hot weather. Hence it is wise if using well or tap water to give it time to reach the ambient temperature either by standing the watering cans in the sun or if filling water butts leave it for 24 hours before using it.

The one disadvantage of rain is that it wets the leaves. Mostly this doesn’t matter or can be beneficial but for tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes and squash it may lead to blight , mildew and botrytis. It is therefore wise always to water at the base and leave the leaves dry.

One good soaking is much better than frequent small applications as this encourages the plant to send roots down rather than remaining near the surface.

With plants in pots and containers it is worth remembering that even in wet weather the surface area is so small the plant is unlikely to get sufficient moisture. So when watering direct the stream at the base of the plant and then right round the rim to ensure the whole container is watered. Finally to make sure penetration has been completed make sure a trickle of water comes out at the bottom.

Using a mulch round the base of plants can help avoid evaporation. An easy is to use one is dried grass cuttings which will inhibit evaporation yet allow you to water through it. I think the evening is the best time to water as it cuts down on evaporation and hence reduces humidity that might encourage fungal diseases.

Tomatoes, chillies, aubergine and sweet peppers benefit from a weekly liquid feed preferably one containing seaweed especially for the tomatoes.

One of the great joys of June is strawberries especially home grown and picked perfectly ripe and still warm from the sun. Most commercially grown strawberries and tomatoes are picked slightly under ripe to ensure a longer self life but what they loose is texture and flavour.
Strawberries benefit from a weekly tomato type feed and must be kept moist. Remove deceased leaves and potential runners at least in the first year. Raise the fruit from the ground with straw or matting and cover with netting to keep birds and squirrels at bay. Also beware of slugs especially the little black ones.

The other great joys of June are first early new potatoes, over wintering broad beans and fresh peas especially Douce Provence. Don’t forget the top foliage of broad beans can be used as a green vegetable a bit like spinach. As for new potatoes, butter,a little salt and pepper and lots of fresh parsley!

Our next event is the summer show on Saturday 19th July in the village hall. Please come along and support us or better still , enter! Schedules available from committee members and the Five Bells
Good Gardening
Peter Estcourt

2025 is turning out to be a rather difficult year in the garden. We have had the driest spring on record which will probably lead to a slow germination of crops planted outside and having to spend an April evening watering is somewhat irksome!

Get greenhouse tomatoes planted as soon as possible. Dig a deep hole and fill with water. When this has drained away place the plant in the hole so that the lowest true leaves are just above ground level. Firm down and water again at the base. The point of all this is firstly to ensure that the roots will track downwards and hence be less susceptible to drying out. Also the stem of the tomato plant is capable of producing roots hence helping to secure the plant and add to vigour. Secondly you want the first truss to be as lowdown as possible as it is possible to get six trusses if height allows.

One of the problems with greenhouse tomatoes is getting the first truss to set. Traditionally gardeners have used a fine spray at night or a gentle agitating of the truss and fingering the flowers to aid setting. All this is now so old fashioned. The modern gardener uses an electric toothbrush to agitate the truss thus mimicking the action of pollinating insects!

Remember to always water in the evening to help reduce humidity and always water at the base to avoid wetting the leaves. Start using a liquid feed when the first truss has set. I tend to use one based on seaweed since tomatoes originate from costal Chile and Peru and seaweed helps with flavour.

Make sure you have good ventilation on hot days as overheating can inhibit setting. Support either with bamboo canes or a strong twine. Remove side shoots and remove the growing tip when six trusses have set.

Also in the greenhouse have your chillies, sweet peppers and aubergine in pots. Sweet peppers and chillies are largely self fertile but aubergine flowers need help either with the finger or electric toothbrush!

Modern greenhouse cucumbers are mostly all female varieties though controlling and directing growth can be a challenge.

Outside rhubarb will now be in full production. To harvest tease out the stalk with a gentle twist at the base. If the dry weather continues this may cause the crown to bolt producing a flower spike. Remove this immediately and give the crown a good soaking and a liquid feed.

Meanwhile continue to earth up early potatoes partly for frost protection but also to ensure that none of the crop is exposed.

Prepare the bed and supports for the runner bean crop to be planted out in early June. Make sure the ground contains plenty of well rotted manure to help retain moisture for the growing plant.

Although it can be unsightly let the foliage of daffodils and tulips die down naturally to ensure that next year’s bulb has maximum nutrients.

Our next event is the plant sale on the 17th May in the village hall car park from 10am to midday.

Good Gardening 

Peter Estcourt

Our first show of the year is on the 15th March in the village hall. Schedules, entry forms and guidance can be obtained from committee members and The Five Bells.

Doors open at 2.00pm and as well as the exhibits there will be available a delicious tea and raffle.

We are again running our competition for children growing potatoes in buckets. Buckets,seed potatoes and instructions will be available at the show. Judging will be at the summer show with prizes for all! 

We will also be running a trug competition for judging at the autumn show. Entry will cost £10 for which you get a trug that you can fill with whatever you want. Again more prizes!

The planting season really gets going in March. By the end of February there are more than ten hours of daylight every twenty four hours and it is this amount of daylight that accelerates growth. However it is my impression that the cold winter weather has extended into late March and April which may hold back growth so be sure to provide young seedlings with extra warmth to go with extra light.

Hopefully chillies, aubergine and greenhouse tomatoes are well on their way. In late March to early April plant seeds of outside tomatoes and choose blight resistant varieties of which there are now many. Plant greenhouse cucumber seeds somewhere warm. Courgettes , marrows and squash which will go outside can be left to later in April.

Keep planting potatoes in sacks and perhaps move on to second earlies such as Charlotte.

Outside it is time to plant parsnips. It is best to use a canker resistant variety and in our heavy soil I use a dibber to make a hole about 8” to 9” deep and fill it with fine compost. Water and then plant five seeds on top and cover with vermiculite. As parsnip seeds can be quite difficult to germinate you can start them off on damp paper in the warm and move them as soon as you see sins of germination. 

The same technique can be used to grow long straight carrots. Early Nantes varieties for spring sowing and Eskimo for main crop as this variety can over winter outside. The main problem with carrots is carrot fly where the fly is attracted to the smell of carrots especially when they are thinned and lays its eggs on the surface and then the larva burrow down and enter the root.

There are numerous ways to try and prevent this. There are carrot fly resistant varieties. Planting onions, garlic and chives along side may distract the female fly and only thin the crop in the evening when the fly is less active. Also you can cover the crop with fine mesh- unsightly! However as the female carrot fly can only manage about two feet in altitude I grow my carrots in deep window boxes on staging of three to four feet in height. This also avoids a lot of bending and kneeling!

There are two danger periods for carrot fly infection and these are late April to early May and August.

As the days warm start planting salad crops such as lettuce, spring onion, radish and beetroot.

Finally for those lucky enough to have an apricot tree aid fertilisation with a soft brush as in our climate at this time of year there are too few insects about for it to occur naturally.

Please remember our spring show and come along to enjoy the afternoon.

Good Gardening 

Peter Estcourt 

February can be a difficult and frustrating month in the garden. Although the days are getting longer it is still cold with frosts at night. Also there is little sign of the spring to come except the appearance of a few bulbs. In the general gloom there is one plant that can supply both colour and a delicate scent and that is the Hamamelis or Chinese Witch Hazel group. Most varieties flower in late December, January,February and early March. There are numerous varieties with flowers with long spindle shaped petals of various colours that give off a delicate scent. The colours vary from bright yellow to deep red. I think in the general gloom of winter the yellow petals stand out better than those of a darker red. The flowers are frost hardy and in the sunshine give off a delicate aroma. They can be bought in flower and can be grown in the border or in a container. They like a well drained sandy soil which means that they will need watering in dry weather before they get established. Most are grafted so when planting add plenty of compost and ensure that the graft site is above ground. They seem delightfully free of pests and diseases and really require little attention except watering in dry weather for the first couple of years and an occasional gentle prune after flowering to maintain a manageable size. After flowering they produce an attractive foliage.

Don’t be confused by the nomenclature. Hamamelis Mollis is the original and Hamamelis Intermedia are hybrids. Just choose what you want!

Finish pruning apples, pears and gooseberries and give them a feed.

Wisteria needs to be cut back to three or buds per spur.

Remove the dead flowers from Nerines and give them a feed pria to the appearance of the foliage. Plant new bulbs in March to May. They do not like to be distributed once established but can become over crowded and need dividing and this should be done in early spring.

Plant bare rooted fruit trees, shrubs along with new raspberry canes and rhubarb crowns.

Towards the end of the month plant aubergine, chillies and greenhouse tomatoes in a propagator and early potatoes in sacks.

Also the end of February is the time to start indoor sowing of broad beans ( Imperial Green Long Pod), peas ( Douce Provence) and mange tout where there is a variety called Newick!

Now is also the time to get your onion sets and perhaps start them off in modules or pots. I think growing onions from seed is for the real enthusiast unless you are after mammoth varieties or spring onions. Red onions tend to be sweeter with a higher sugar content and hence caramelise and it is difficult to beat Red Baron . Otherwise I stick to Sturon for good size round onions and Stuttgarter Giant for rather flatter onions which keep best of all.

Our Spring Show is on the 15th March and schedules are available from committee members and at The Five Bells.

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

The shortest day , Christmas and the New Year have all passed. The days are slowly beginning to lengthen although it remains cold and wet.

Hopefully you have cleaned the greenhouse and poly tunnel and all your utensils are sparkling!

Early planting really does need a propagator especially as they provide heat from below.

Aubergines and chillies require a long growing season and are best started off in late January or February. The same goes for tomatoes to be grown on in a greenhouse. I dealt with tomato and chilli varieties last month. For aubergine try Money Maker for large round fruit and Long Purple for a more sausage shaped product. Remember that when potted on they will still need extra heat and maximum light to avoid the plants going leggy.

Chillies and aubergines will be grown on in pots but tomatoes may well go into the greenhouse borders. It’s probably wise to change the soil in the borders every 3 or4 years to avoid the build up of disease and depletion of nutrients . Always incorporate well rotted horse manure and if possible wood ash and soot to ensure the best flavour. The real enthusiast can go and collect seaweed to shred and dig in to provide the very best in flavour. After all tomatoes originate from the costal plains of Peru and Chile. Add lime pellets to correct the pH and prevent blossom end rot and magnesium sulphate to ensure good flowering and healthy foliage.

Keep checking stored garlic, onions, shallots and potatoes. Order your seed potatoes following the recommendations from last month. As soon as they arrive set them out to chit by placing the eye end uppermost. Old egg boxes often work well. Then they need to be in a frost free but light environment. By the end of February they can be started off in potato sacks provided they can be frost free with plenty of light.

It’s always fun to go through the catalogues to see what’s new and on offer. Most gardeners are quite wisely fairly conservative and stick to what they know works but every year try something new either in a crop or variety.

Outside cut down autumn fruiting raspberries to ground level and then I give the ground a good covering of what ever is available such as odd bits of manure and garden compost. This helps keep down weeds , feed the canes and prevent the rain from washing out the nutrients.

Prune apples and pears but leave stone bearing fruit until the spring and attack the fig tree in March.

Collect your schedule from a committee member or The Five Bells and prepare for our spring show in March.

Happy New Year and good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

As we approach the shortest day it is time to reflect on the passing year and plan for the future.

Personally I found 2024 a difficult year with a wet delayed spring and perhaps a lack of summer sunshine but thankfully no drought or hosepipe ban.

One of the great joys of gardening is there is always more to learn and often a second chance to put it to the test.

So many aspects of a garden are unique to that garden ; soil , orientation, amount of sunshine, size and the amount of time available to tend it.

So having cleaned the greenhouse and poly tunnel ; sterilised the pots and tools now is the time to plan and look at the catalogues.

Whatever the size of a garden I think there are somethings that are essential partly because they are needed little and often and maybe difficult to source from elsewhere. A good collection of herbs comes into this group. Thyme in a large pot , sage and rosemary in open ground. Mint is probably best grown in a sunken bucket to try and restrict its growth. A bed of chives which keeps going year on year and don’t forget to include garlic chives. Annual herbs such as parsley, coriander and dill can be stared off in pots in the warm at the end of February. Parsley will last the year through whether curly or flat leaf but coriander and dill will need repeated sowings either in pots or open ground.

I think a chilli plant is worth a go. For a windowsill try Apache which produces a compact bushy plant providing plenty of fruit. In the greenhouse I grow Cayenne which produces lots of green and red chillies which are quite hot if the whole fruit is used but mild if the pith and seeds are removed. Any surplus fruit can be dried or frozen. Theoretically it is possible to overwinter chilli plants but I have never managed it. However the choice of varieties is huge but as they are self fertile if you find a variety that suits your needs save the seeds and they will breed true.

What crops to grow outside depends on space and time and particularly what tastes best home grown. The most obvious is tomatoes. Commercially tomatoes are picked slightly under ripe to give them better keeping qualities and a longer shelve life but it does sacrifice the development of the full flavour which depends on ripening on the vine in the sunshine.

Beefsteak varieties can realistically only be grown under cover but are well worth the effort. Try Buffalosteak and Big Daddy either as seeds or plug plants.

Tomatoes grown undercover ripen  two or three weeks before those grown outside and of course are protected from blight. Shirley is the best medium sized variety and Sungold for a cherry type.

Outside I stick to blight resistant varieties though this year saw relatively little blight.

Try Mountain Magic , Crimson Plum and Cocktail Crush for medium fruit and Crimson Cherry for smaller fruit.

Early potatoes are worth considering as these can be started in late February in buckets or potato sacks to give a crop in mid May. Swift is the earliest but also try Sharpes Express and Red Duke of York which are more floury with great flavour.

For second earlies try Charlotte. I feel main crop potatoes are not worth it unless you have plenty of space or are going for something a little unusual such as Pink Fir Apple.

Food for thought and more next month

Please remember The Horticultural Society and support us in the coming year. Our schedule for 2025 will be out shortly and will be available from committee members and at The Five Bells.

Finally a very happy Christmas to one and all.

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

As I write this in mid October we have just had our first frost and the winter months are now with us.

The arrival of a frost will hasten the falling of leaves. These are best removed regularly from lawns but if possible leave a couple of piles in the wilder parts of the garden for wild life. On the compost heap keep the leaves well mixed with paper and cardboard.

The alternative is to make leaf mould. The easiest way to do this is to three quarters full a plastic bin bag and then the male members of the household urinate into it. Then seal the bag and make a few holes in it with a fork. Put aside for a couple of years and that’s it. The resulting leaf mould makes an excellent mulch and can be added to homemade potting compost.

Once you have cleared and cleaned the unused parts of the vegetable plot you have to decide what to do next to protect the ground over the winter. If left open the danger is that the winter rains will leach out a lot of the nutrients and wash away the fine soil leaving a stony and depleted soil.

The real enthusiast will plant a covering of green manure which essentially is a mixture of bean and clover seeds that will grow and protect the soil and can be dug in in the early spring before they set seeds. They therefore also provide compost and a degree of nitrogen fixation.

Perhaps an easier alternative is to cover the soil with a layer of compost and manure and then cover it with either old cardboard or plastic sheeting. The soil is protected, the compost will help add nutrients and the covering will suppress weeds.

There are two crops that can be planted now to over winter with the onions garlic and shallots. The first is broad beans. The best is Aquadulce Claudia which is a tall variety and will withstand any amount of frost. The Sutton is a dwarf variety but not quite so hardy and does benefit from some protection during the coldest spells. Also being a dwarf variety it is more prone to slug damage but having said all that is valuable where space is limited.

Start off inside in modules if like me you are plagued by squirrels and mice . Plant out at the four leave stage.

Secondly there over wintering peas. The two main  varieties are Meteor and Douce Provence. Meteor is probably the most hardy but Douce Provence produces the tastier pea. Again start off inside and protect from slugs and snails. Although dwarf varieties a degree of support will be needed.

Clear and empty greenhouses and poly tunnels and sterile everything using Jeyes fluid which can also be used for cleaning pots, trays and tools.

Remember to regularly check stored potatoes and onions.

Keep overwintering onions garlic and shallots weed free and check for interference from birds.

Finally gather together all the catalogues that are now arriving and put them aside for a cold wet winters day when you can start to dream of the wonderful things you are going to grow in the coming year.

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

We held our autumn show on the 14th of September. Although the vegetables and flowers on display were of the highest quality we failed to get many entries in the cookery flower arranging and particularly the children’s classes. We rely heavily on exhibitors from outside the village as there seems to be little enthusiasm locally for the society which is reflected in the small numbers of visitors in the afternoon. This of course calls into question whether the Society can survive after over 150 years. The Society desperately needs new members and new ideas so please if you value the Society contact us and offer support and help. Our AGM is on the 17th of October at 6:30 pm in the reading room with light refreshments provided.

Now to matters horticultural. Overwintering onions garlic and shallots should be planted in October. For onions try radar and senshyu and plant the sets with the top just visible and check regularly that birds haven’t pulled them out.

The choice for garlic is huge but always buy in varieties bred for our climate and don’t rely on cloves from shop bought bulbs as they will have been grown in warmer climes. Czechmate is a good variety specially adapted to Northern Europe. Plant to a depth equivalent to the height of the clove as garlic bulbs are produced below ground unlike onions and shallots. For shallots I go for Jermor. Keep them all weed free and they are all totally frost resistant

I leave carrots and beetroot in the ground and cover them with fleece in the colder spells and this seems to work better than lifting and storing.

Now is the time to consider hedge pruning so all is quiet for nesting birds in the early spring.

Frosts are on the way so protect or bring in tender plants.

Plant indoor bulbs for Christmas such as hyacinths and Amaryllis.

Regularly rake up fallen fruit and leaves and compost with added cardboard. Apply grease bands to fruit trees as projection against winter moth caterpillars.

Please remember us.

Good gardening.

Our last show of the year is on Saturday 14th September in the village hall. Doors open at 2.00pm to reveal a mass of wonderful exhibits and a lovely tea so do come.

September really marks the beginning of autumn as spring and summer sown vegetables begin to wind down.

Dig main crop potatoes and remove any excess earth and allow to dry. Only store those that appear in perfect condition as one bad spud can ruin a whole sack. Store in potato sacks, double if possible in a dark cool frost free shed or garage to ensure they don’t go green. It’s a good idea to inspect them every three or four weeks and remove and use any that are less than perfect.

Dry off onions until the neck is completely dry and then either plat them or store them in a onion sack. Again inspect periodically

Keep picking beans and courgettes to try and prolong the season as much as possible.

With outside tomatoes remove the remaining leaves to allow maximum sunlight to encourage ripening. They can safely be left until the beginning of October before being brought in.

Peppers and aubergine will be ripening and are best used straight away. Chillies can be left to fully ripen and to be used as required. I think chillies are one of the few plants with which it is worth saving seed. They are largely self fertile so will breed true. The varieties are so numerous it seems sensible when you have one or two that meet your needs you stick with them. Let the fruit ripen and then dry before remove the seeds and storing the in an airtight container.

When loganberries and cultivated blackberries have fruited cut out the old cane and tie in the new. In my view easier said than done!

Apples and pears will be starting to ripen. With apples gently lift and twist and if it comes away in your hand it is probably ripe. When cut the seeds should be brown.

Pears are more problematic. Lift and bend back and if it comes away it is probably ripe.

Watch out for caterpillars and aphids on the brassicas and remove any dead or yellowing leaves and ensure the ground is free of debris.

Finally start thinking about autumn planting bulbs , not just onions, garlic and shallots but also daffodils, hyacinths and tulips. More next month.

Please remember our autumn show.

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

Our next event is the autumn show on Saturday 14th September at 2pm in the village hall. Free entry, interesting exhibits and a delicious tea but best of all why not enter!

August is probably the most productive month in the vegetable garden but just as busy and hectic as the other eleven!

Cut down the fruiting canes of summer raspberries and tie in the new young canes with one about every nine inches  then feed with a general purpose fertiliser.

Cut out the fruiting branches of currants and open up the bush to encourage new growth to bear next year’s fruit.

With strawberries remove the runners and any dead or dying leaves and give them a good feed. Plants should be replaced every three to four years either by using runners from existing plants or buying in from a supplier. This is probably the best option as the plants will be disease free and a greater choice may allow a longer harvest time. Plant the new arrivals as soon as they are delivered and don’t forget to label them!.

Mulch around fruit trees to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. It is also time to do a last tidying up of plums and apricots as soon as they have been harvested. Open up the centre of the tree and shorten new growth by about a third. Also remember to keep the tree to a manageable size.

Pinch out the growing tip of runner beans to encourage branching and increased cropping. Water and pick regularly and if a surplus of beans remember the wonders of runner bean chutney!

Finish digging second early potatoes but leave the main crop until next month.

In the greenhouse water regularly and ensure good ventilation. Keep an eye open for pest especially red spider mite and aphids. Red spider mite can be deterred by regular spraying especially on cucumbers. Lady birds and their larvae are avid eaters of aphids and you can squash them. If all else fails use a commercial garden detergent spray . They work by dissolving the wax coat of the aphids. Using washing up detergent is a bit risky as too strong a solution will also damage the plant leaves.

Garlic will have been harvested and now it is the turn of onions and shallots. Leave the growth to die down naturally and do not bend it over and then gently loosen the roots with a fork.

As soon as sage has stopped flowering remove the flowering stem and give it a good soaking and new growth will appear for next year. Remember that sage flowers are a great favourite of bees and other insects so should be left as long as possible.

Remove some leaves from tomatoes to expose the fruit to direct sunlight as this will add to the sweetness. The same applies to grapes.

The joy of freshly picked sweetcorn will now be ready. When the tassel on the top of the cob has died off and gone brown peel back the covering to expose the kernels. Pierce one with a finger nail and if the liquid is milky it is ready to eat. If clear leave for a few more days.

Remember our summer show

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

Our next show is on Saturday 13th July in the village hall. Doors open at 2pm but better still why not enter? Schedules and entry forms are available from the Five Bells or any committee member. There is always help on hand to offer advice and guidance on exhibiting.

We are now passed the longest day so though temperatures continue to rise the amount of daylight begins to reduce. This produces very subtle changes in plant behaviour. For instance lettuces will produce a less dense heart and the transplanting of seedlings becomes more problematic.

However early July is not too late to plant for late autumn or early winter crops. Beetroot will produce small globes and dwarf French beans will provide a green bean though the seeds will not mature. Chard is well worth planting now as it will give a good return in late winter , spring and early summer of next year.

However the most important task in the vegetable and container garden is regular watering as described last month.

Aubergines, peppers , chillies benefit from a weekly feed. Courgettes will soon be in production. Harvest regularly to ensure continuing cropping since if they get large enough to produce seed the plant will think “ job done” and give up! Remember to keep the leaves dry to avoid mildew.

Stop indoor tomatoes at six trusses and those outside at four. The warm weather combined with rising humidity makes the perfect conditions for tomato blight. The spores initially infected the leaves especially after rain but then rapidly spreads to the stem and fruit. It is the same genus as potato blight so the two crops should not be grown in close proximity.

It is largely air spread though in theory spores can over winter in rotting infected plants from the previous year so it is essential to clear all infected crops at the end of the season but avoid composting it as the heat generated in a compost heap is not sufficient to kill the spores. Green waste is heated to a higher temperature which will sterile the compost. There are no chemical controls available to the amateur gardener so try and ensure good movement of air and perhaps try blight resistant varieties.

Another plague tormenting the vegetable grower is carrot fly. This can over winter in the soil either as a pupa or larva at a depth of up to 30cms. In May they lay their eggs and the maggots infect the adjacent carrot roots before maturing into a small fly and setting off for pastures new. There are therefore two main periods of peak infection in late May and June and August. Mesh will keep the fly out and prevent it from laying eggs so it is essential to ensure that the ground chosen for sowing carrots is disease free. There is no chemical help for the amateur gardener but there is a biological control available using nematodes which offers some help with the addition of a mesh covering.

At the end of the month keep a careful eye on the fig tree as with a warming climate figs are tending to ripen in August rather than early September. They will need protection against birds and here old tights and stockings make excellent little sacks to provide such protection.

Wisteria will be sending  out lots of long wispy shoots and these need to cut back to maintain order.

Please remember our Summer Show

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

After one of the wettest winters on record it is now time to think about watering and how to do it and hope there is not going to be a hosepipe ban!

Firstly rain water is best. It contains dissolved oxygen gathered in the clouds and in its descent to your garden. Collected in water butts from all available surfaces it is at the right temperature when used.

One is not entirely sure what is in mains water and direct from the tap it is too cold to be used on plants during hot weather. The same applies to water from wells should you have one and don’t forget you don’t own the water!

Always allow time for mains water to reach the ambient temperature either by leaving it in cans and containers for twelve hours or leaving for twenty four hours in a water butt.

So when to water? Unfortunately early morning is probably the most beneficial time for plants if not for the waterer! This ensures plenty of moisture during the hottest part of the day and will avoid any likely hood of water logging. The alternative is the evening but this may condemn a plant to a soggy night! Midday is best avoided as much water will be lost to evaporation.

Always water at the base and try and avoid wetting the leaves as this may encourage fungal diseases .

When watering plants in pots make sure to water right round the edge of the pot to ensure that all the soil gets the benefit. To make sure that the watering has been thorough allow a few drops come out of the bottom of the container. Again this is why morning watering is best as the moisture will be taken up through the day. Also with pots and containers it is a good idea to rotate them through ten to fifteen degrees every few days to ensure even growth.

Some plants present unique problems. Courgettes, marrows and squash are very sensitive to mildew if their leaves get wet so insert a tube or an old drinks bottle at the the base and water through this.

June days are the longest with the most intense sunshine of the year meaning that growth is at its fastest. With it comes the first of the soft fruit and everybody’s favourite, strawberries. Unfortunately it’s not only humans that fancy strawberries as they are also a delight to birds , squirrels and slugs. Raise the fruit off the ground with straw leaving a few slug pellets round the the base and cover with netting. Careful watering will be required during dry spells and regular picking essential.

Ensure poly tunnels and greenhouses are well ventilated and shaded if necessary during the middle of the day.

Weekly feeds for tomatoes, peppers, chillies and aubergine once the fruit has formed.

At the end of the month the thought of the first home grown new potatoes will give you a new lease of life!

Time to start thinking about our next show on 13th July

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

Our next event is the plant sale on the 18th May in the Village Hall car park between 10am and 12 midday. A wide selection of flower and vegetable plants will be available as well as plenty of advice and good company.

We will also be hosting a stall at the St. George’s Day fete on the 27th April.

I think the early part of this year has been very frustrating for gardeners due to the continual rain leading to soggy ground and difficulties in early planting. Hopefully all that has now passed and the arrival of May will bring longer days, warmth and plenty of sunshine.

One of the great treats of late April and May is asparagus. Once the bed is established and after three years harvesting can start. Cut spears when they are 5 to 6 inches tall. Cut obliquely just below ground level. The season last to early June when they should be left to build up strength for the following season. Keep weed free but be careful as asparagus is shallow rooted and weeding is best done by hand. Apply a general fertiliser and leave until the foliage yellows in the autumn. Cut down and apply a good layer of well rotted manure plus if possible seaweed collected after autumn gales as asparagus is a plant of coastal regions.

It is still possible to get a late frost in May though this has become much less likely as a result of changes in the climate. However by the end of May it should be safe to plant out frost tender plants such as tomatoes, courgettes and runner beans.

If growing tomatoes in greenhouse borders plant as deeply as possible, even up to the first true leaves. This ensures that the first truss is low down on the plant and should ensure enough space for six trusses before stopping growth. Always water at the base and avoid wetting the leaves so as to avoid disease. Start feeding as soon as the first truss has set. There may be difficulties in getting the first truss to set so when passing gently tap the truss and use a finger to transfer pollen. Sweet peppers, chillies and aubergine need regular watering and feeding once the fruit has set. They also may benefit from a light spray of warm water to aid setting and deter pests. Watch out for the dreaded aphids!

If space allows greenhouse cucumbers are well worth growing but just two  plants will produce an adequate harvest. Choose an all female variety.

With greenhouse grapes allow one shoot per spur and stop two leaves beyond the embryo bunch.

Allow daffodils to die down naturally although this may look untidy.

When adding grass cuttings to the compost heap remember to add plenty of old paper and cardboard to avoid the heap from becoming too soggy.

By the end of May the first strawberries will be ripening and will need protection from slugs and birds.

Remember the plant sale and St. George’s Day

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

The arrival of April brings with it a multitude of tasks to do in the garden and vegetable plot.

By mid April it is safe to place tomato plants in the borders of greenhouses and poly tunnels. There is a saying “ we are what we eat “ and what a plant grows in defines its strengths and the flavour of its fruit.

For good strong plants and especially good flavoured fruit tomatoes need to be grown in ground rich in well rotted horse manure with added lime and magnesium sulphate. For flavour tradition has it that wood ash , soot and seaweed need to be added and the fruit allowed to ripen on the truss with as much sunshine as possible to ensure maximum sweetness. Fundamentally that is the difference between home grown and commercially grown tomatoes whatever the original root stock.

Now is the time to start frost tender plants under protection pria to planting out at the end of May or early June. Essential here are courgettes , sweetcorn and runner beans.

I like green elongated courgettes but others may prefer yellow or round ones!

Plant the seeds in individual pots vertically and pointing slightly upwards. This encourages growth and prevents rotting. Good varieties are Defender F1 and Zucchini.

Home grown sweetcorn is vastly superior to anything you can buy. This is because as soon as the cob is picked the kernels start turning sugars into starch so they loose sweetness and become more mealy. So pick and eat immediately. Start off individual seeds in root trainers. The best early variety is Swift F1 and for later crops try Goldcrest F1 and Moonshine F1.

Almost every vegetable plot in the country will contain runner beans though curiously they are almost exclusively a British obsession and not widely grown on the continent.

For a long harvest start some off under cover in April for planting out in early June and at planting place a seed bean between each plant to ensure the longest possible season. Traditionally grown in a wigwam frame they actually do better with upright canes allowing sun and wind to embrace the plants.

The choice is enormous. Some modern varieties are a cross between a climbing French bean and a runner bean which results in a self fertile type which is probably best for early planting. Try Moonlight and Firestorm. Later try Scarlet Emperor and Enorma , especially for exhibiting.

Hopefully at our plant sale on Saturday 18th May these will be available.

April and May are a good time to tidy up stone bearing fruit trees such as plums, damson, peach and apricot. The main purpose is to remove dead and damaged branches and those crossing and open up the centre and to keep the tree to a manageable size as at some stage you are going to have to pick the fruit!

Another job for April is to prune and tidy up the fig tree which to me always seems a hopeless task as there seems to be no order in the way a fig tree grows! Keep the tree to a manageable size and remove dead and crossing branches. Most fruit is born on a lateral growth in its second year so try and keep 6” to 9” between laterals and keep an eye out for the embryonic fruit. Good luck!

Hopefully by the time you read this it will have stopped raining and the sun will be shining.

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt

Our Spring Show is on Saturday 23rd March in the village hall from 2.00pm. Entries should be with me by 6.00pm on the Friday before or between 7.30 and 8.30 at the village hall. Schedules and entry forms are available from committee members and The Five Bells. Also available at the show will be the buckets , instructions and seed potatoes for childrens potatoes in a bucket competition .

After 14th February we start to get more than 10 hours daylight per day and this with the increasing warm of the sun stimulates growth.

Last month I mentioned tomatoes for growing in the greenhouse and I would like to add one more. This is Shimmer F1 which produces small plum shaped tomatoes with a green and red striped skin. What is slightly unusual about them for a small tomato is their firm texture which I think adds to the flavour.

Now for tomatoes to grow outside. Due to the widespread danger of blight combined with the fact that there is now no fully effective prophylactic available to the amateur gardener I only grow blight resistant varieties outside. Fortunately there is now a great choice available. The seeds can be difficult to find in garden centres but are readily available on line and many can be sourced as plug plants.

Firstly I will deal with cordon or intermediate types which need support and the removal of side shoots. Mountain Magic is probably the best variety for medium sized fruit and is reliable and trouble free.

For larger fruit try Crimson Crush , Crimson Blush and Oh Happy Days. Crimson Cocktail produces medium sized fruit whilst Crimson Cherry does what its name suggests. Also worth a go is Crimson Plum which produces a heavy crop of medium sized plum shaped fruit.

Blight resistant bush varieties include Lizzano and Losetto which both produce small cherry type fruit. Summerlast F1 produces slightly larger and firmer fruit and is said to crop over a long period.

The end of March is the time to plant parsnips. Choose a canker resistant variety such as Gladiator and using a dibber make a hole about 8 inches deep and fill this with fine well sieved compost with added sand. Water and place 4-5 seeds on top and cover with vermiculite. Protect from slugs and as the seeds germinate and grow pick the strongest and discard the rest.

During March I tend to start salad crops , spinach , chard , beans and peas in the greenhouse as the weather can still be a bit un predictable but by next month , April it’s all go!

Please remember our Spring Show and come and admire the exhibits and enjoy a pleasant afternoon or better still, enter!

Good gardening

Peter Estcourt

At last the days are getting appreciably longer and the growing season is nearly upon us.

Finish pruning apple , pears and quinces by removing any dead , diseased and crossing branches. Try and open up the middle of the tree to let in more sunshine and cut back new growth to keep the tree to a manageable size. Remember you are going to have to pick the fruit!

Stone bearing fruit trees such as plum , damson and apricot should be pruned in May when the sap is rising to reduce the risk of silver leaf fungal infection.

Prune wisteria back to two to three buds on each spur.

Give lawns a good firm rake to remove dead grass and as much moss as possible.

Continue to remove yellow leaves from brassicas and clear out diseased and rotten stems in the chard.

February can be a very cold month and with the ground saturated from autumn rains planting outside is not a good idea. What is needed is a good propagator and a warm , light conservatory or greenhouse because now is a good time to plant chillies and aubergine seeds. Both require a long growing season so an early start is essential. With chillies find a variety that suits you and save the seed. With aubergine a good standard is money maker. For greenhouse tomatoes now is the time to sow seeds. Shirley is probably the best of the medium sized tomatoes although Alicante and Money Maker are old favourites. For salad tomatoes go for Sungold and Gardeners Delight. The alternative is to buy in plug plants in late March or April if only a few plants are required. There is also the option of grafted plants. These are traditional varieties grafted onto disease resistant and more vigorous root stock. They undoubtedly produce strong vigorous plants and a bigger crop but I do wonder if the taste is compromised by the use of a different root stock.

For beefsteak varieties always buy in. As they can only really be grown in a greenhouse in our climate I tend to only grow one or two standard tomatoes and use the rest of the space for beefsteak types such as Buffalo Steak and Super Steak. After all blight resistant outside tomatoes can make up the bulk of the crop – more next month.

If you have a heated greenhouse it is possible to get an early crop of strawberries by bringing them inside in containers. Strawberries need a cold spell so the end of February is early enough. Remove all the dead leaves and give them a good feed with tomorite.

At the end of the month I have my first sacks of Swift potatoes in the greenhouse alongside onion sets started of in modules. Stick to old varieties such as Sturon , Stuttgarter Giant ( best for keeping) and Red Baron.

Best of all is Douce Provence peas started off in pots.

Is there anything better than fresh peas and new potatoes? Patience!

Our schedules are now available from committee members and The Five Bells. Our Spring Show is on Saturday 23rd March when we will be giving out buckets and seed potatoes for the childrens potatoes in a bucket competition.

Stay warm and optimistic

Good Gardening

Peter Estcourt